A Thing Or Two We’re Doing Besides Salivating Over The Best Food We Made Last Year

You know, 2021 definitely wasn’t our best year in cooking (hello, burnout), but these 20 recipes won our hearts...against all odds? A food-related podcast and a taste of Secret Menu follow!

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What Healthy Comfort Food Means to Julia Turshen. And a Snack Taste Test!

If you’re not already a devotee of Julia Turshen and her cookbooks ,well, consider this your initiation into the fan club. We’re talking with her about “healthy” and “comfort”—loaded food words, for certain!—and because we’re geniuses who knew this topic would make us hungry, we’re starting things off with a snack taste test.

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Chews You can Use: Affogatos


When having people over for dinner during those pandemic valleys when it feels responsible to do so, I can’t be bothered to think about dessert. It just feels so...fussy, all of a sudden. Like, can’t we just relish the joy of being in one another’s vaccinated company without having to think about *courses*? But should the mood strike once the plates are cleared, I know I always have ingredients for an affogato, which requires the exact-right amount of effort: dumping a shot of espresso over a scoop of vanilla (HDVB ice cream, obviously, or Talenti gelato if you’d like to hew Italian) in a cute cup, and calling it a day. I’ve got those Nespresso pods raring to go, but a stovetop (Alessi?) Moka would serve you well here, as would instant espresso, possibly a decaf version so as not to eff with the sleep hygiene of your guests. 

And you can always zhoosh if you so desire—doctor up the ice cream with olive oil and sea salt, add a big ol’ dollop of barely sweet whipped cream like they do at Caffè Panna, or sub the coffee for matcha as is the 29B Teahouse way. For me, the point here is something a little special with absolutely no effort: just the power of two really good ingredients combined. The only twist on the classic that I’m really compelled to DIY is Eric Kim’s take that he calls an affogato Americano, which is fast-food coffee and soft serve united for something that sounds plenty worth the highway exit. —Erica
 

Chews You Can Use: The Recipes that Made Whole30 Manageable

I did Whole30 in January 2021 and have a lot of mixed feelings about it, many of which I spoke to at the top of this podcast episode. I’m hesitant to endorse it, but I did find benefits: I did not discover any food sensitivities (to cop a favorite line from the Poog podcast: I tragically do not have a gluten allergy), but I was reminded that what I consume impacts my mood and energy levels immensely, something I’d lost sight of. I did find enough recipes to make it manageable, and I’m even keeping some of them in the regular rotation. My caveat here is that the world of Whole30 recipes is littered with cringey blog titles and outdated aesthetics, so suspend your judgment if you can. This tikka masala soup spoke to the part of me that questions why the ratio of sauce to chicken is not more generous when ordering Indian takeout. I made double batches of this orange hoisin sauce to freeze and found it goes just as well with shrimp as with chicken. I also used Whole30 as an excuse to finally get an air fryer—specifically the lid that transforms your Instant Pot into one—and was impressed by how nicely green beans, brussels sprouts, and potatoes played with it. I’ll never go back to cooking buffalo wings any other way. And, speaking of: I was highly suspicious of this buffalo chicken chowder but have made it multiple times now and am wondering what other dishes deserve to have blended cashews mixed into them. This coconut cauliflower soup had already been a staple and played a big role, along with other “regular life” meals that happened to be compliant, like roast chicken and frittatas. The final takeaway I’ll offer is not a recipe so much as a confession: I’d been needlessly turning up my nose at cauliflower rice for years (along with zoodles, which do deserve my scorn, it turns out), only to discover that there’s a reason it’s become such a thing. It’s quite nice, especially mixed with sauteed onions or a squeeze of lime. —Claire

 

There’s more where this came from in our Thursday Secret Menu emails—join the fun.

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